What Are The Problems And Their Solutions Of Daylilies? 

Daylilies (Hemerocallis) are some of my favorite flowers. The one I grew up with last year was beautiful. My only problem with mine was the squirrel in our backyard, which would find them in our front yard and chew on them sometimes. This year, however, I planted coffee around them all, and so far, it hasn't bothered them, although they haven't bloomed yet. I keep reading about people having problems with daylilies, so I wanted to put together a comprehensive article addressing anything that might be wrong with daylilies and how to deal with these issues. how to deal

It is normal for the leaves to die back after the plant has flowered, so there is nothing to worry about. The leaves of some varieties are naturally brown, and some turn brown after flowering. If this is the case for you, cut back infected limbs or leaves and provide some extra water after flowering if Mother Nature doesn't provide enough.

Three classes of hardness

If your roses are not doing well for you, the first thing to consider is that you are trying to grow the wrong variety for your region. Therefore, I explain that daylilies are divided into three main hardiness classes and suitable growth zones for each:

Dormant: These lilies become dormant, dying completely in winter. This time period allows them to withstand freezing temperatures and helps them prepare for vigorous growth in the spring. You can grow dormant daylilies all season in USDA zones 3 through 9. In cooler zones, such as 3-5, it is important to grow only dormant daylilies because they can survive freezing temperatures. If you live in warmer zones like 5-9, it is possible to grow dormant lilies, though they may not live up to your expectations in extreme heat.

Evergreen: These daylilies retain their foliage all year round, so you should only pick them if you live in a warm climate with mild winters. You'll have more success with them in Zones 8-10. They usually thrive in long growing seasons with moderate temperatures as this allows them to maintain their leaves and continue to grow. If the weather is cold in your area, they may experience some blistering but usually recover quickly when temperatures return to normal. Evergreen daylilies need winter protection to survive cold climates and will likely do poorly in cold climates with harsh winters.

Semi-evergreen: Depending on their winter behavior, these daylilies fall between dormant and evergreen. They will only partially retain their leaves in mild winters and may experience some dieback in cooler temperatures. Semi-evergreen daylilies can adapt to a variety of climates and are generally suitable for growing in Zones 4-9. In warmer regions, they will behave like evergreen species, retaining most of their foliage throughout the year. In cooler climates (Zones 4-6), they can be more dormant, with foliage wilting during the winter months, although they are not quite the same as true canker varieties.

If you have more questions about the best daylilies for your area, contact your local extension office.

Leaf streak

One of the most common problems you can see on your daylily is leaf streaking, and it's not hard to spot. Sometimes, the problem is only cosmetic, causing minor damage to your plant. Other times, however, leaf streak can cause significant leaf loss, and can lead to complete defoliation, although this is rare.

Leaf streak is caused by a fungus (Aureobasidium microstictum) that overwinters in day-old leaf debris, producing spores that start disease each spring. The fungus is most common in warm, humid weather. Spores produced on infected leaves cause additional contamination.

If your daylilies have leaf streak disease, the symptoms will begin to appear as yellowing that starts at the tips of the leaves and spreads down and out. The tissue will eventually turn brown and die. If you have red-brown spots on your leaves, this could also be a sign of leaf streaking. The spots are enlarged, turning brown, and surrounded by yellow halos. As the disease progresses, the leaf may eventually die.

The only solution is to remove all affected leaves immediately. Next, fertilize and water your plants to encourage new leaf growth, but don't use sprinklers. Sprinkler irrigation will spread the fungus and create favorable conditions for contamination. Instead, use a hose or drip hose to apply water directly to the soil. You can also limit the spread of pathogens by not handling your plants while they are still wet.

Daylily Rust

Plum rust is also caused by the fungus Puccinia hemerocallidis. In the very early stages of the disease, there may be no obvious symptoms, although the most obvious symptom of leaf rust is the appearance of yellow to brown streaks on the leaves. This is because the veins of the plant prevent the growth of fungi that cause streaks.

You may also see very small bright yellow spots on the surface of the leaves. The underside of the leaves has many small orange to yellow spots that grow and release numerous dusty, orange spores. Germs are released from these bags and carried by wind, water, workers, or gardening tools. As symptoms progress, the leaves turn yellow and dry.

Flowering aphids and other aphids

Mention of the word "aphid" can give a gardener a headache. They are just the worst! If your daylilies are yellow, discolored, or curled, you may have an aphid problem.

Daily aphids feed exclusively on daylilies (although other aphids can also damage your plants). Aphids are small, soft-bodied insects that vary in color (green, yellow, brown, or black) depending on their species and stage of their life cycle. They are small insects - usually no more than 1/8 inch long.

All aphids feed by piercing the leaves and stems of the plant and sucking the sap, causing weakness and damage to the plant. In addition, they secrete a sticky honeydew that attracts other insects (mainly ants) and black mold produces sooty on the leaves.

Aphids also transmit viruses.

Aphids can also transmit viruses such as tobacco mosaic virus, tomato spotted wilt virus, or cucumber mosaic virus, all of which can cause symptoms such as yellowing and stunted or stunted growth. If you have severe infections, viruses can also cause your daylily plants to die.

How to get rid of aphids

Aphids can be removed very easily, although if you are not vigilant and checking them every day, you will end up removing affected leaves rather than simply removing the aphids. They can be washed with a splash of water, or if they are not succulent, put on a pair of rubber gloves and place in a container with a lid. Then throw it in the trash. Ladybugs and lacewings can also take care of this problem for you because they eat aphids.

Other insects to watch

In addition to aphids, many other pests can affect daylilies, such as:

Thrips: If you see silvery streaks or spots anywhere on your daylilies, you may have a thrips attack. Like aphids, these tiny insects feed on plant sap, causing streaks or spots.

Spider mites: Check the underside of your plant's leaves. If you see yellow, mottled, or bronze leaves, your plant may be infested with spider mites. If your infestation is severe, leaves may dry out and fall off the plant.

Slugs and Snails: If you notice large, irregular holes in leaves or chewed edges, you probably need to go out after dark with a flashlight and look for slugs or snails. , select it manually. And put it in a bucket of soapy water. I've said before that aphids are the worst, but slugs will be close. I crush the eggshells and put them around the daylilies because slugs and snails can't get through.

Japanese beetle: If the leaves or flowers have become quite skeletal, the Japanese beetle may have eaten your plants, which could cause them to drop off entirely.

Leaf miners: You can tell if they have infected your plants because they burrow through the leaves, leaving visible tracks or tunnels. Severe infections can weaken the plant and stunt its growth.

Scale insects: These insects can actually cause yellowing, withering, or stunting of plants by attaching themselves to the stems and leaves of daylilies.

Nematodes: These are microscopic roundworms that can live in the soil, and are hard to see but feed on the roots of daylilies. It will also cause stunted growth, yellowing and wilting. The most effective way to rid your soil of nematodes is to cover it with clean plastic wrap for several weeks during the hottest part of the year. Increasing the soil temperature (insolation) can help kill nematodes and other soil-borne pests.

If you have determined that you have thrips, spider mites, Japanese beetles, leaf miners, or scale insects, you can use neem oil to get rid of them. However, you should always follow the manufacturer's instructions when applying neem oil to your plants.